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Most beautiful castles in Denmark


(CNN) — Many modern visitors to Denmark are drawn by its groundbreaking Nordic cuisine, beautiful design, clean cities, windswept coastline or its cycle network — all of which help make it one of the happiest countries on Earth.

But there’s another, older, set of travel attractions that make it worth visiting: castles.

A kingdom to this very day, this small Scandinavian country has an impressive collection of palaces ranging from abandoned island fortresses to Shakespearean royal dwellings, elegant water castles and countryside regal retreats.

Here are some of the best that Denmark has to offer.

Kronborg

Kronborg: The “Hamlet” castle

Jon Nordstrøm/Courtesy of VisitDenmark

Something may have been rotten in the state of Denmark, according to Shakespeare’s “Hamlet,” but that decay hasn’t touched the grandiose castle that featured in the play.

Kronborg, in the city of Helsingør, was immortalized by the English playwright as Elsinore, the setting for much of his epic royal revenge tragedy.

It is at the battlements here that characters Marcellus and Horatio had their oft-quoted “something is rotten” conversation. It’s a cool location for Shakespeare fans to check off their list, but an amazing place to explore even for folks who haven’t read or seen the play.

The spectacular UNESCO-protected fortress stands over the narrow Øresund sound, just four kilometers across the water from Sweden. It’s filled with mysterious pathways, halls and dungeons.

Constructed in the 15th century as a vital border point for the ships traveling via the sound to and from the Baltic Sea, it was once one of the most prominent and powerful castles in Europe.

Kronborg, 3000 Helsingør; +45 49 21 30 78

Frederiksborg

Anyone who likes their castles postcard-perfect will love Frederiksborg.

What can be more picturesque than a large Renaissance palace on the water surrounded by lovely Baroque gardens?

Frederiksborg was the first Danish castle to be built inland and was always destined for recreational rather than defense purposes, which explains the fairytale looks.

Numerous towers, fountains, statues, turrets and spires enhance its charming allure.

Inside is the largest portrait gallery in Denmark as well as an enticing maze of decorated halls.

The Hermitage

Hermitage 1

The Hermitage was originally a hunting lodge located inside the Deer Park.

Kim Wyon/Courtesy of VisitDenmark

Technically not a castle but a hunting lodge, The Hermitage is nevertheless an indisputable part of Danish castle heritage.

What makes this area truly unique isn’t necessarily the architecture of the lodge itself — although it’s a lovely miniature Baroque palace that hosted banquets during royal hunting escapes.

The thing that makes The Hermitage stand out is the landscape it’s set against.

In 2015, UNESCO inscribed the Dyrehave (or Deer Park) surrounding the lodge into its World Heritage list as a classic hunting landscape of North Zealand. It’s still richly forested.

Today the deer are no longer hunted in the Dyrehave. Instead, they mingle with forest visitors, adding to the magical fairytale atmosphere.

Amalienborg

London has Buckingham Palace, Copenhagen has Amalienborg.

Both have queens in residence and both countries are constitutional monarchies.

Both palaces are guarded by busby-wearing soldiers, to the delight of tourists.

What’s different is that Amialienborg consists of four identical buildings designed initially for the noblemen of the Danish capital.

The royal family moved here at the end of the 18th century after a fire that destroyed their old home at Christiansborg Palace, which is now the seat of the country’s government (see below).

Amialienborg opens to the public from time to time, allowing visitors to see how the queen and king live.

Otherwise, there’s a spectacular view on the Marble Church from the center of the square and the Little Mermaid is a few blocks away.

Fredensborg

Fredensborg 1

The fairytale-looking Fredensborg is a popular celebration venue for the royal family.

Kim Wyon/Courtesy of VisitDenmark

Fredensborg may well be the castle that the Danish royals love the most.

Queen Margrethe celebrates her birthdays here, Queen Mother Ingrid made it her private residence, Princess Benedikte had her wedding in the palace chapel and it’s used as a spring and autumn home by Crown Prince Frederik and Crown Princess Mary.

With its reserved but beautiful looks, infinite Baroque gardens, lush surrounding forests and peaceful setting, it’s easy to see the appeal.

There’s a sense of the royal retreat too. The gardens are open all year round and the palace can be visited on special occasions, so it’s worth keeping an eye on its website.

Christiansborg

There is a place in Copenhagen unlike anywhere else in the world. Located on the central islet of Slotsholmen, Christiansborg Palace is the only building on Earth that houses all three official branches of power: executive, legislative and judicial.

While it may sound quite a risky idea to put everybody in the same place, Denmark’s success story as a country seems to prove otherwise.

It’s also known as “Borgen,” (“the castle”), a name it shares with an internationally popular Danish political drama set in and around Christiansborg.

Royals also have their corner here, hosting receptions and meetings with the official delegations.

There are Royal Stables, the Tower with the best (and free) views over Copenhagen, the Palace Chapel and ruins of two former castles underneath.

You can visit some parts with a guided tour.

Rosenborg

Rosenborg 2

Rosenborg is now a museum that houses a fascinating collection about the royal family.

Kim Wyon/Courtesy of VisitDenmark

While many Danish castles are still all about the current royal family, Rosenborg takes visitors on a journey to discover all about the country’s regal past.

This Renaissance architecture jewel in the center of Copenhagen is, in fact, a museum exhibiting the fascinating Royal Collections.

These include the Crown Jewels and Regalia, a Coronation Carpet and the Throne Chair of Denmark — which you can see, but not sit on.

Apart from the splendid exhibits, the walk through the numerous richly decorated halls and pathways of the castle are an architectural feast.

Rosenborg, Øster Voldgade 4A, 1350, Copenhagen; +45 33 15 32 86

Egeskov

With moats and drawbridges, spacious courtyards and pretty gardens, Egeskov has genuine fairytale looks.

Conveniently and romantically located in the middle of the country’s southern Funen region, this place is one of Denmark’s many privately owned castles.

Inside are well-maintained interiors plus Titania’s Palace, an impressive 3,000-piece dollhouse hand-built by the Irish company James Hicks & Sons at the beginning of the 20th century.

The palace also has a classic car exhibition featuring more than 50 vehicles of different eras.

Several hedge mazes offer the chance to get completely lost on the castle’s premises.

Egeskov, Egeskov Gade 18, 5772 Kværndrup; +45 62 27 10 16

Hammershus

Towering over the rocky cliffs of the North tip of Bornholm island lies the epic Hammershus, considered to be the largest medieval fortification in Northern Europe.

Although now in ruins, the walls of this fortress tell countless stories of Baltic crusades, fierce battles and daily life in the Dark Ages.

Today this vast complex serves as a perfect backdrop for enjoying the magnificent landscapes of rural Bornholm, as well as dramatic views over the Baltic Sea.

Hammershus, Langebjergvej 26, 3770 Allinge; +45 56 48 11 40



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How Chicago became America’s brashest and boldest city


(CNN) — Nicknamed the “city of the broad shoulders,” Chicago rises majestically out of America’s Midwest.

Bold, brash and welcoming to anyone willing to dig in and dream big, the Windy City defines the spirit of the United States, having emerged from the ashes of a devastating fire to become a key hub for the country’s rapid development.

From its architecture to its politics, its cuisine to its immigrant heritage, Chicago is wholly different from New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco and Miami. Everything about this place is big and in your face.

And nowhere defines the Chicago spirit quite like the Palmer House hotel.

Built by bank clerk turned retail tycoon Potter Palmer, the original hotel burned down just 13 days after opening, a victim of the Great Fire that swept the city in 1871.

‘Fireproof’ hotel

The historic Palmer House is now a Hilton hotel.

Courtesy Palmer House Hilton

It reopened as the world’s first “fireproof” hotel just two years later, becoming a magnet for the great and good of late 19th and early 20th century America.

By the time a third iteration of the hotel was built in 1925, Palmer House had become a true Chicago icon.

“Keep in mind, when this hotel opened in 1871, basically what people slept in was their covered wagons going west,” explains Ken Price, Palmer House’s in-house historian.

“Or a public house, which was a single-story building that housed a bar. And the bar was a floor covered in hay.

“A man would ride into town, drink himself into craziness and then collapse in one of these slots on the floor.”

That all changed after the Great Fire, when virtually all central Chicago was razed to the ground.

Price describes how Palmer built a hotel of stone and cement, rather than using timber, adding fascia marble and grand touches to make the building stand out.

“I think Palmer learned from being in this place called Chicago that it would one day be the commercial success it became,” adds Price.

“He sensed that and that’s the reason Chicago became the railroad capital of America, the hog butcher of America, the second manufacturer of steel, processor of grain, processor of wood.”

Soon Palmer House would become a byword for luxury in Chicago.

In 1879, it hosted what has since become known as “the greatest banquet in American history,” when President Ulysses S. Grant and General Sherman sat down for a meal at which the master of ceremonies was one Samuel Clemens, aka Mark Twain.

According to Price, Palmer House still takes great pride in having hosted such a momentous event and the plates, tankards and cutlery used that day have all been carefully stored.

“The entire collection is three levels below the hotel, underneath the hotel subway because this stuff is truly priceless. There are 500 place settings, 18 pieces to a place setting and 24-karat, heavily lacquered gold and bone china.”

Iconic architecture

Chicago skyline

The majesty of the Chicago skyline.

Saul Loeb/AFP/Getty Images

Palmer House is just one example of Chicago’s diverse, fascinating and downright brilliant architecture.

The Great Fire gave the architects of the time a blank canvas to create buildings that are still hailed to this day.

“[Chicago] is a city that doesn’t worry about following the rules,” says Chicago’s official cultural historian Tim Samuelson.

In the wake of the Great Fire, there was scope to try to build a new city that reflected its place at the heart of American industry, technology and culture.

The people who came to Chicago to help rebuild were, says Samuelson, renegades.

“They have a different idea of what architecture should look like,” he says. “What’s the nature of style? What about making a building that reflects its technology? “How it’s built. Giving it a new vision.

“This is what made Chicago different, and because Chicago was a city of people who came from everywhere, there was no set idea of what something should look like.”

Samuelson points to Louis Sullivan, who came to the city in 1873 to make his name as an architect, as perhaps the best example of this phenomenon.

“He had ideas of making a building that would be a part of its environment, that would be expressive of its structure, that would have its form based on what the building is supposed to do, but also to do something that’s like an analogy of what you would see in nature, that makes you sigh.”

Perhaps the best example of Sullivan’s work is the Schlesinger and Mayer department store, now known as the Sullivan Center.

“If you look at the base of this building, and this strong, green base to it, this is like rooting the building to the ground,” says Samuelson.

“And as you look up, it rises up to the sky, and then a cornice spreads out that’s like the blossoming of a flower.”

Sullivan’s work, along with that of numerous other architects, helped turn downtown Chicago into nothing short of a fine art museum for buildings.

Few places, if any, in the United States, can match its grandeur.

Politics, power and corruption

Democratic National Convention, Chicago, Illinois, 1968

The 1968 Democratic National Convention was blighted by clashes between protestors and police.

Pictorial Parade/Getty Images

Chicago’s reputation wasn’t just built on the back of great architects.

While its famous department stores and skyscrapers are elegant, there’s a darker side to this city, where power, money and politics collide.

This is a destination renowned for its organized labor, progressive politics and a system of patronage, the latter shaped in large part in the post-war period by one man, Richard J. Daley.

Known as “da mayor,” he single-handedly redefined Chicago’s political machine.

Daley was mayor of Chicago from 1955 until his death in 1976. His controversial tenure was marked by accusations of vote rigging, including claims centering on the election of John F. Kennedy as president in 1960, and systemic violence.

The latter was no more apparent than during the infamous 1968 Democratic National Convention, when Chicago’s politics drew the attention of the entire world.

Don Rose, who worked as Martin Luther King Jr.’s press secretary, saw first hand the brutality meted out to protesters marching on the convention as part of the fight against the Vietnam War.

“I was part of the group of radical troublemakers who were protesting the war in Vietnam and the likely nomination of [Hubert] Humphrey. We wanted to dump Johnson and get rid of the war,” says Rose.

“We wanted to march to the amphitheater and tell the convention, but they didn’t let us march.

“We came right up here out of the park and were met with scores of policemen, police wagons and heavy billy clubs which they called batons.

“They started smashing heads indiscriminately. This became known as the ‘Battle of Michigan Avenue’.”

Rose was one of many protesters shouting at TV cameras that “the world is watching.”

A subsequent federal investigation dubbed the battle a police riot, much to the disgust of Mayor Daley. Rose explains that Daley’s approach was part of a wider political machine across the city, known for backhanders and corruption.

“One way or another, you had to pay your way,” says Rose. “When inspectors came in, if you were opening up a business, it was very common for them to give you approval and you’d give them a tip as you might tip a washroom attendant.”

According to Rose, the tactics are different today.

“Campaign contributions are the current way and have been for some years rather than naked bribery,” he says.

He stresses that money remains a key factor in driving the continuing issues with the city’s politics.

“The big guys make their money in legitimate ways that in many places are considered unethical,” Rose adds.

“You have a law firm; the most powerful alderman in the city council and the most powerful leader of the State Democrats both make their millions through their law firms which represent people before the board of assessments.”

For all the issues, says Rose, there are, and have been, signs of hope.

“Chicago’s an awful lot of things,” he says. “It’s an awful lot of neighborhoods. On the one side, it’s the most segregated city in America.

“Severe problems of race have gone on for generations and yet, out of Chicago, we got our first black mayor and now our second black mayor who’s a woman and a lesbian and a fellow named Obama made it all the way to the top.”

Al Capone dominated organized crime in Chicago during the Prohibition era.

Al Capone dominated organized crime in Chicago during the Prohibition era.

APA/Getty Images

Murky worlds

While political graft might have got its name in Chicago, the city was also known for its organized crime, an issue that remained rife until a decade ago.

Al Capone famously ran Chicago during the 1920s Prohibition era, taking advantage of immigrant communities, with the mob having a stranglehold on businesses and neighborhoods for much of the 20th century.

“Organized crime in Chicago lasted for so many years and was so powerful because of the people that ran it,” says Frank Calabrese Jr., a former mob enforcer turned FBI informant.

“Even though the Chicago mob was much smaller in numbers than New York, they were more powerful. A lot had to do with the labor unions, the way they were running businesses and making money with less violence.”

It’s here that Chicago’s murky worlds collide.

“In order for the mob to survive they need politicians, they need judges, they need law enforcement,” says Calabrese. This gave rise to protection rackets, which businesses were forced to pay right up until the 1990s.

Rush Street, in particular, was under mob rule. “It was kind of a common knowledge in the city… the mob ran Rush Street,” says Calabrese.

“Growing up, if you were tough, as a kid… you only had two choices in life… you either became a gangster or a law enforcer,” he adds.

Calabrese helped organize crime across Chicago, but grew tired of his old life.

His decision to help the FBI led to an investigation in 2007 that finally helped bring the mob down.

Today, there’s little left of its infrastructure, even if its style is still felt in the way Chicago does politics.

“There are guys left, but they’re not doing what they used to do,” says Calabrese. “They went legitimate.”

Baseball wars

In 2016, the Chicago Cubs won the World Series for the first time since 1908.

In 2016, the Chicago Cubs won the World Series for the first time since 1908.

Ezra Shaw/Getty Images North America/Getty Images

The influence of Italian culture in Chicago is obvious, especially when it comes to food and, in particular, pizza.

This is the home of deep dish and a raging debate about whether such a loaded form of pizza can ever be better than traditional, tavern-style thin crust.

However, it’s not just vast deep-dish pizzas that keep Chicagoans fueled.

The infamous Chicago dog, replete with pickles, onions, relish, mustard and peppers also scores big when it comes to finding something to leave you full for at least a day, especially if you opt for the half-pound “dogzilla.”

While the pizza debate might seem contentious, it’s got nothing on the rivalry between Chicago’s two baseball teams, the Cubs and the White Sox. The latter dominates the south, while the former has a stronghold in the north.

One man straddles the divide: Darryl Wilson. Wilson is from the south, “Sox territory” as he calls it.

But he also happens to be the scoreboard operator at Wrigley Field, home of the Cubs.

“Cubby fans are like, banned from my neighborhood, you know?” laughs Wilson.

“When I got this job, um… I had to tell all my friends, I’m working for the Cubs now. Every year, every day I got off work, they just rag on me all the time. All the time.”

That ragging got worse when the White Sox won the World Series in 2005.

But vindication came in 2016 when the Chicago Cubs, nicknamed the “Lovable Losers” for not having won the World Series since 1908, finally came out on top.

“That year was so magical. It was hard for us to even keep up the scores, ’cause every time they did something, we want to look out, you know?

“And every time they won a game, man… I mean, we’d just bang on the scoreboard as hard as we could, to cheer with the fans and they were out there cheering with us. We’d bang on the scoreboard, they’d turn around.

“They’d bang on the scoreboard, too, or one of the chairs down there. It was magical.”



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How to pack a carry on with Samantha Brown



Samantha Brown has been crossing the globe as a TV travel host for 20 years. She often just takes a carry on bag, and offers her best tips for packing up your luggage. First tip: go with a hardside suitcase



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